Finishing the Pockets

I made a new pocket flap to replace the one that I didn't like. That suede is really hard to work with. I probably would have made this whole thing a lot easier if I'd skipped the suede details, but I really like the look. Oh well.

After sewing the front seams it was time to finish the pockets. I started by making the double welt/piping pocket. To the right you'll see a picture of how it came out (its curved over a ham in the picture). Not perfect, but it will do. I had to partially disassemble them and trim down the seam allowance because the welts came out too thick. I'm still not completely pleased with it, the welts look too "puffy" to me. Unfortunately I think this is caused by the thickness of the fabric. I trimmed and thinned down the area as much as I dared. If you have any suggestions about this please e-mail me. I'd like to get them perfect next time.

Once I had the welts completed I drafted a pocket bag pattern. I sort of used the directions in the Cabrera book, except I made a two-piece pocket bag instead of a one piece. I made the upper pocket bag 8" wide by 5 1/2" deep (the depth of the finished pocket, 5", plus 1/2" seam allowance). The under pocket was 8" wide by 7 1/2" deep (depth of pocket, plus 1/2" s.a., plus 2" for extra distance traveled to top of welts).

Since my pocket opening is at an angle (e.g. not parallel to the jacket bottom) I cut the upper edges of the pocket bag at the same angle. This angle is required so the pocket bag will hang vertically when attached to a slanted pocket. To get the angle I simply measured the pocket and found it had a 3/8" rise over the distance of 3" horizontally (clear quilter's ruler was great for this). I sewed the upper pocket to edge of the bottom welt, then basted the lower pocket over that, catching only the pocket welts and reinforcement. To the right is a picture of the pocket bag basted on.

After basting I used the machine (with zipper foot) to sew all around the pocket bag, attaching it to the welts and pocket reinforcement. The pocket flap is also caught in this seam, anchoring it. (Yeah, I know, real exciting picture. Guess I'm going a little crazy with this digital camera).

My big problem during this phase was getting the pocket flap to stay straight. The suede is almost impossible to baste through, so I had only lightly basted it. One of the flaps is not perfectly straight, even after the second time sewing it. The question is, should I go back and re-do it, again?

My husband looked at it and said it wasn't really noticeable until I pointed it out. However, I'll know its there, and it will bother me. So maybe I should. What a conundrum! The offending flap is in the picture to the right. Now that I look at it in the picture, its really obvious, isn't it? I guess I'll have to re-do it. Ho-hum.

I guess I'll have to go do that now, before I start on the canvas....