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Book Reviews

Below is a list of the sewing, craft, and textile arts books that I own. Along with the particulars of the book I have a short description and, in some cases, my opinion about the book.

Markings:    green asterisk = Added since the last update. Red asterisk = Referred to somewhere else on this website.

The books are split into 6 topics listed in the table of contents below. (Although, in some cases I had a hard time deciding what category to put a book in.)


Sewing

Sew Any Set-In Pocket - Claire Shaeffer
ISBN: 0-8019-8399-1, 118 pages
Need to know how to sew a set-in pocket? You'll find instructions here. Categories/chapters: inseam pockets, edge pockets, more inseam, slash, porthole, double welt, single welt, more slash, set-in pockets on a patch, welts & flaps. Good diagrams and clear instructions.

Fashion Sewing for Everyone - Adele P. Margolis
No ISBN, Copyright 1974, 435 pages
A solid general sewing reference. It has an oddly meandering style and doesn't cover some of the newer sewing techniques (e.g. sergers/overlockers), but this is a good solid reference book.

Easy Guide to Serging Fine Fabrics - Kitty Benton
ISBN: 1-56158-090-2, 111 pages, Published by Taunton
Covers garment sewing with a serger. Concentrates on finer fabrics such as silk, that we don't ordinarily associate with serging. Chapters include "Demystifying the Serger", "Fabrics, Thread, and Notions", "Skills and Seams", "Using Your Knowledge". Includes a section on lingerie.

Textiles, 5th Edition - Norma Hollen, Jane Saddler and Anna L. Langford
ISBN: 0-02-356130-0, Copyright 1979, 313 pages
This is textbook for a college-level introductory course in textiles. It contains four sections Fibers, Yarns, Fabric Construction and Fabric Finishes. I've really enjoyed reading this book and definitely know a lot more about textiles now. They discuss things like fiber cross-section and how it affects the fiber characteristics.

High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers: a step-by-step guide to sewing stylish seams, buttonholes, pockets, collars, hems, and more -Claire Shaeffer
ISBN: 0-87596-717-5, 238 pages
Design and construction techniques from high-end RTW designers. Packed with information. Good diagrams and instructions. Includes a section on copying ready-made clothing.

Fabric Sewing Guide - Claire Shaeffer
ISBN: 0-8019-7802-5, 531 pages
This is a must-have for the serious sewist. Covers all fabric types/weaves. How to sew them, hand & drape, what to expect, care, appropriate seams/thread/and needles, useful tips. Before I sew any new (to me) fabric I look it up in this book.

All About Silk, ISBN: 0-9637612-0-X
All About Wool, ISBN: 0-9637612-2-6
All About Cotton - all by Julie Parker
This is an excellent group of books. Each books discusses fabrics of that fiber and all the various weaves. Includes roughly 30 representative sample swatches. Use these books to educate your "hand". For each fabric includes info on: ease of sewing, care, pressing, fit/drape quality, cost, wearability, special notes. Also has tidbits on historical info and interesting technical stuff. Excellent!

New Vogue Sewing Book
No ISBN, 136 pages, Copyright 1964 The Butterick Company, Francis L. Brandt - Publisher
This oddity is half magazine, half book. Its a bizarre collection of disjointed articles about clothing construction, interfacing, fitting, sewing machine attachments and Vogue patterns. They mention the "new sizing" so I guess Vogue must have changed their sizing in 1964. Its an amateurishly published, amusing little book. I paid 25 cents for it at a thrift store. The original retail price was $1.

Vogue: Sewing for Your Children ISBN: 0-06-181132-7, 190 pages

A thorough book discussing all aspects of sewing for children. Besides the usual sewing techniques this includes a lot of tips and reminders specifically to make clothes more easy and durable for children.

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
ISBN: 0-88850-247-8, 432 pages
General reference text for garment and home dec sewing. Excellent for beginners and useful reference for experienced sewist.

Simplicity's Simply the Best Home Decorating Book
ISBN: 0-671-76712-7, 247 pages
A good thorough book on home dec. When I need to know how to do something in home dec, this is the first book I look in. Very good diagrams. Spiral bound.

Dressmaking: a step-by-step course - Leila Aitken
ISBN: 0-8069-0627-8
An excellent, basic text on garment construction. This would be a good book for a beginner. Instructions/diagrams are clear and useful. Provides good reference for intermediate sewist.

Opening and Closing - Lois Erickson, Anne Charles
ISBN: 0-911985-09-3, 196 pages
Need ideas for unusual closures? This is the book to have. While its weak in diagrams/instructions, this book is very rich in inspiration and ideas.

The Serger Idea Book - Palmer/Pletsch
ISBN: 0-935278-18-4, 157 pages
Excellent book of ideas for creative serging. Good photos, diagrams and instructions.

The ABC's of Serging: a complete guide to serger sewing basics - Tammy Young/Lori Bottom
ISBN: 0-8019-8195-6, 148 pages
Exactly what the title says. This is a *very* good book for introduction to serging.

The Best of Sewing with Nancy - Nancy Zieman
143 pages
Topics: heirloom sewing - quilted fashions - luxurious lingerie - speed tailoring - designer touches - sewing basics. While not a comprehensive guide to any of these topics it provides a good introduction to all of them. Very clear diagrams and instructions.

10, 20, 30 Minutes to Sew - Nancy Zieman
ISBN: 0-8487-1153-X, 143 pages
Good book for those with little time to sew. Covers time-block sewing and speed sewing. Some basic sewing instruction.

Sewing Express - Nancy Zieman
ISBN: 0-8487-1413-X
Collection of creative garment sewing ideas. Tends toward speed sewing. Good instructions diagrams. Nice ideas

Distinctive Details: Great Embellishment Techniques for Clothing - Taunton Press
ISBN: 1-56158-095-3, 95 pages
Series of Threads articles on decorative clothing details. Very nice. Good source of ideas.

Pants for Any Body - Palmer/Pletsch
ISBN: 0-935278-08-7, 128 pages
How to fit & sew pants. Good diagrams and instructions.

Singer Sewing Reference Library
Cowles Creative Publishing, Inc. 800-328-3895
Multiple titles, typically 130 pages long.
I recommend this series very highly. Not only are their instructions and diagrams the clearest of any I've seen, their photos of techniques/samples are exquisite and inspiring. This series is particularly useful if you are a "visual learner". Below are the SSRL books I own.

101 Sewing Secrets, ISBN: 0-86573-216-7 Useful sewing techniques/ideas, copying RTW, trade secrets, fiber burn test, designer techniques, fun ideas, sewing room secrets.
Timesaving Sewing, ISBN: 0-86573-216-7 Tips & tools, sewing with a plan, shortcut techniques, home decorating.
Sewing for Children, ISBN: 0-86573-244-2 Getting started, infants, growing up, personalizing, dressing up.
Creating Fashion Accessories, ISBN: 0-86573-285-X Belts & bags, scarves & ties, hats & hair accessories, jewelry & more.
Quick & Easy Sewing Projects Easy cloths, quick accessories, fun toys to sew, home decorating projects. (By the way, I find this book very useful when I want to sew, but am too tired or brain-dead to do anything serious. Projects are laid out clearly enough that its nearly effortless.
Creative Sewing Ideas, ISBN: 0-86573-246-9 Creating fabrics (includes broomsticking and felting), creative details, embellishments, creative projects.
Sewing Update No. 2, ISBN: 0-86573-246-9 New horizons, tools of the trade, surface design, wearable fashions, home fashions.
Sewing for the Home Fabrics for home dec, equipment & notions, basic seams, windows, pillows, tables, beds.
More Sewing for the Home, ISBN: 0-86573-236-1 Getting started, window treatments, bed & bath, finishing touches.
Decorative Machine Stitching, ISBN: 0-86573-256-6 Basic stitches, applique, heirloom sewing, free-motion sewing.
Tailoring, ISBN 0-86573-241-8 Three methods of tailoring: custom (hand) tailoring, quicker combined custom/machine tailoring and speed (machine/fusible) tailoring. As usual, they have beautiful photos and crystal-clear diagrams.
Fabric Artistry, ISBN: 0-86573-326-0 Art and craft techniques f or wearable art. Making felt, pinweaving, fabric weaving, quilted effects, trapunto, pleated effects, texturizing fabrics, couching, decorative bobbin thread sewing, double needle, free-motion embroidery, machine openwork, thread lace, embossed velvet, devore, design transfers and stabilizers. Fun!
The Perfect Fit, ISBN: 0-86573-213-2 Figure analysis, recognizing good fit, measuring, pattern adjustment, fine tuning.
Sewing Pants That Fit ISBN: 0-86573-252-3 Types of pants, understanding fit, pattern adjustments, perfecting the fit, construction techniques, design variations.


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Fitting/Draping/Pattern Drafting

The Art of Fashion Draping - Connie Amaden-Crawford
ISBN: 87005-634-4, 307 pages
Fairchild (FIT) Publications
Instructions are clear and easy to follow. Includes collar patterns. Good book for someone wanting to learn draping and useful reference text.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design - Helen Joseph Armstrong
ISBN: 0-06-501789-7, 914 pages
A huge, comprehensive textbook on patternmaking. This book is not for the faint of heart, and consists of a full course (probably several full courses) in patternmaking and design. Very clear diagrams and instructions.

Modern Pattern Design: The Complete Guide to the Creation of Patterns as a Means of Designing Smart Wearing Apparel - Harriet Pepin
Copyright 1942 by Harriet Pepin, Published: Funk & Wagnalls Company. No ISBN, 253 pages.
This is by far my favorite pattern drafting book. For a good general pattern drafting book I would refer you to the Armstrong book above. But this book is incredible. It has an amazing number of design ideas and is also extremely entertaining. The instructions are moderately clear, but are not of the step-by-step variety. If you like 1940's styles you'll flip over this book. Having been published in 1942 its obviously hard to find. I borrowed my sister's book and made copies for my bookshelf.

Make it Your Own: Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design - Lori Bottom, Rhonda Chaney
ISBN: 0-8019-8380-0, 167 pages
Excellent, inspiring book on making style changes to existing patterns. This is one of my favorites. Topics includes: collars, novelty necklines, savvy sleeves, ornamental overlays, custom closures. Clear diagrams and good directions. This is a good way to introduce yourself to pattern design and drafting.

Patterns from Finished Clothes - Tracey Doyle
ISBN: 0-8069-4875-2, 127 pages
Well diagrammed guide on copying RTW.

How to Fit Clothes - Ann Tuit
Drake Publishers, N.Y., (out of print)
A good basic guide on how to fit clothes. If you find this second-hand snap it up.

Fit and Fabric - from Threads
ISBN: 0-9422391-81-0, 125 pages, Taunton Press A collection of articles from Threads Magazine, concentrating on fitting and fabric handling topics. Includes articles on: recognizing good fit, copying RTW, shirt collars, draping a blouse, sleeves, fitting pants, sewing leather/lame/silk/plaids/knits/spandex, custom patternmaking, building a dress form, etc..

Fantastic Fit For Every Body - Gale Grigg Hazen
ISBN: 0-87596-792-2, 239 pages
A good fitting book that tells you how to fit clothes to the figure you have now. Lots of useful information as well as a bit of cheering you on. Ms. Hazen has serious fitting challenges herself so she has some very useful insights, particularly for full figured women. Good content on figure analysis and choosing flattering designs.

Every Sewer's Guide to the Perfect Fit - Mary Morris & Sally McCann
ISBN: 1-887374-43-4, 140 pages, Published by Lark Books for G-Street Fabrics
This book and the one above are very similar. This one has less cheerleading and the instructions are more step-by-step. However, the example women in the Hazen book have much more extreme figure variations and it seems to concentrate more on flattering your figure. If I could only buy one of them ... well I don't know what I'd do. Go to the library and read both of them I guess.

Fitting Finesse - Nancy Zieman
ISBN: 0-8487-1437-7, 143 pages
A basic book on fitting and pattern alteration. Note: She concentrates on the pivot-and-slide method of pattern alteration. This is a simple and effective method for making small pattern modifications, but has real limits. If you only need to make adjustments here and there, this is a great book. If you need to make significant modifications to a pattern this method may not work.

Fitting Your Figure - Taunton Press
ISBN: 0-8487-1437-7, 143 pages
Collection of Threads articles on fitting, pattern alteration and dress-form modification. Very useful.

Creative Design: the Art of Sewing - Time/Life Books, 1975
Creating and fitting a sloper. Designing from a sloper. Photos are dated, but I really like this book.

Also see The Perfect Fit and Sewing Pants That Fit under the Singer Sewing Reference Library


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Tailoring & Couture Sewing

Couture Sewing Techniques - Claire Shaeffer
ISBN: 0-942391-88-8, 217 pages
A study of couture quality sewing. Includes history, insider view, methods & principles, diagrams and photos. I love this book. In fact, I love all the books I have by Claire Shaeffer. She's a very interesting and thorough author.
The first section contains 5 chapters, each covering a basic area of couture sewing, e.g. Chapter 2 The Art of Hand Sewing not only covers all the hand stitching techniques you might need, but also has a table of "Threads And Their Uses" and "Needles And Their Uses". Chapter 3 Shaping the Garment is about seams, darts, pressing techniques, etc.. The second section contains six chapters, each describing how to apply couture techniques to a particular type of garment or part of a garment. This is a great book for advanced sewists, or for intermediate sewists who want to substantially advance the quality of their sewing.

Couture: the Art of Fine Sewing - Roberta Carr
ISBN: 0-935278-28-1, 206 pages
An excellent book on couture quality sewing and techniques. Claire Shaeffer's couture book is more dense (in both depth and breadth), but this book offers more detailed instructions and how-to. Both books are worth owning and they complement each other nicely.

Jackets, Coats and Suits - Taunton Press
ISBN: 1-561-58-048-1, 93 pages
Collection of Threads articles. Includes deconstruction of an Armani jacket and an article on pressing techniques.

Classic Tailoring Techniques: a Construction Guide for Women's Wear - Roberto Cabrera, Particia Flaherty Meyers
ISBN: 1-87005-435-X, 305 pages, Fairchild (FIT) Press
I cant recommend this book highly enough. If you want to learn classic tailoring this is the place to learn. The step-by-step diagrams and instructions are superb and easy to follow. This book has been my "bible" during my tailored jacket project.

Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring - Palmer/Pletsch
ISBN: 0-935278-09-05, 127 pages
A basic overview of tailoring with comparisons of various methods, from speed to classic tailoring.

Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets - Cecilia Podolak
ISBN: 1-56158-110-0, 111 pages
A very useful, well-diagrammed book on fitting and sewing jackets. Takes you completely through a jacket construction. Note: does not cover collar/lapel treatment.

Vogue & Butterick's Designer Sewing Techniques
ISBN: 0-671-88878-1, 123 pages An eclectic collection of sewing techniques from designers Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ellen Tracy, Victor Costa, Claude Montana, Geoffrey Beene, Todd Oldham, Bill Blass,, Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld and Bellville Sassoon. Topics include favorite fabrics and handling techniques, favorite closures, pockets, linings, etc..

Terry Fox Fashion Collection: 10 Couture Garments To Make From Start To Finish - Terry Fox
ISBN: 1-57076-016-0
NOT! I have to admit that this book was cheap (it had been remaindered) so I can't complain too much. However, I was rather startled that these garments were supposed to be couture. For example, on page 18 there is a photograph of the back waist area of one of the dresses. It looks horrible, with the dress back puckered and awkward looking. Even worse is the dress on page 77, which is not only falling off the model's shoulder, but sags weirdly across the chest. Many of the garments just look badly designed and some just poorly constructed. However, to be charitable I will say that 1) some of the problem is caused by the fact that the garments were clearly not fitted to the models and 2) much of the information/techniques in the book is still valuable and valid despite what's shown in the photographs.

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Fabric Dyeing & Painting

The Complete Book of Fabric Painting - Linda S. Zanzinger
ISBN: 0-9616180-1-9, 183 pages
Primarily text with some b&w photos and diagrams. This is a meaty text that covers the full range. Included are: all forms of dyeing and dyestuffs, inking, painting, stamping, airbrush/spray painting, marbling, stenciling, foiling, mixed media, etc.. Includes formulas and recipes. Its unique in that it discusses most brands and types of paint, dye etc.. Excellent reference book.

Surface Design for Fabric - Richard M. Proctor, Jennifer F. Lew
ISBN: 0-295-97446-X, 192 pages
Similar to The Complete Book of Fabric Painting. The text is less comprehensive, but with more pictures and diagrams. Both books are worth owning.

Color Wheel Fabric Dyeing - Kathy Widger
No ISBN. (Privately published?) Available from Dharma Trading Co. Small, but excellent workbook on graduated fabric dyeing. Includes formulas and sample swatches of dyed cotton. Good book for quilters.

Batik and Tie Dye Techniques, 3rd Ed. - Nancy Belfer
ISBN: 0-486-27131-5, 145 pages
Useful beginner/intermediate text. Black & white photos. Silk painting is also covered, though not mentioned in title.

Complex Cloth: a Comprehensive Guide to Surface Design - Jane Dunnewold
ISBN: 1-56477-149-0, 159 pages
Guide to various methods of surface design. Excellent diagrams and instructions. Beautiful photos. Includes projects and design ideas. Useful appendixes. Lovely and inspirational.


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Embroidery

The Craft of Embroidery - Alison Liley
No ISBN. 224 pages
Mills & Boon Ltd, London 1965
"The author has had specially in mind the requirements of the City and Guilds Hand Embroidery syllabus..."(U.K.) A good book for those learning hand embroidery & reference for the more experienced. Has an excellent chapter on design.

An Introduction to Machine Cutwork - Michelle Pullen
No ISBN. 125 pages, M.V. Designs, Australia
Extremely good method and instructions. Gives beautiful results. Includes cutwork designs. I highly recommend this for anyone wanting to do machine cutwork.

Elegant Stitches: an illustrated stitch guide and source book of inspiration - Judith Baker Montano
176 pages
Charming and lovely little book that is exactly what the title says. Ribbon & floss embroidery covered. Stitch guide progresses from basic stitches to complex combination stitches. Includes section on free-form embroidery designs. Beautiful pictures, very inspirational.

Readers Digest Needlecraft - Judy Brittain
240 pages
Good, basic handbook on the needlearts. Includes instructions and diagrams. Categories include: embroidery - needlepoint - patchwork, quilting and applique - knitting -crochet - basic sewing.

Embroidery - Jennifer Rollins
ISBN: 1-85471-161-X, 47 pages
Gorgeous pictures. Very rudimentary instructions. Includes projects.


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Quilting, Crafts, Surface Embellishment, Miscellaneous

The Art of Manipulating Fabric - Colette Wolf
ISBN: 0-8019-8496-3, 310 pages
(I was unsure which category to include this in as it is useful to anyone who sews). This is a must-have reference book for any serious textile artist. A comprehensive work on making 2-dimensional fabric become 3-. Chapters include: gathering, shirring, ruffles, flounces, godets, pleating, smocking, tucking, cording, quilting, stuffing, darts, and mixed manipulations. Everything is diagrammed and samples are done in muslin. (Apparently it took the author 10 years to write this book and work up the samples. I can believe it!).

Make Your Own Shoes - Mary Wales Loomis
This book is available directly from the author. Its $19.95 plus $3.50 S&H.
http://www.marywalesloomis.com Call or write:
1487 T Parrot Dr.,
San Mateo, CA 94402
(415)345-8012
I highly recommend this book. This is not about making slippers or moccasins. She shows you how to make shoes that are indistinguishable from store bought; except they fit you and are in the colors and fabrics you choose. The instructions are clear and well illustrated.

Distinctive Details - from Threads Magazine
ISBN: 1-56158-095-3, 93 pages, The Taunton Press
A collection of articles from Threads about embellishment techniques. Bindings, layering sheer fabrics, stabilizers, all over surface embroidery, applique, heirloom sewing, decorative stitching on felt, lace, quilting, trims, Dior roses, embellishment with self-fabric, tambour beading, leaf printing, beading, crocheted buttons, needle-lace buttons, closures. A great read.

Natures Patterns: inspiration and techniques for quilt makers - Joyce R. Becker
ISBN: 0-8442-2648-3, 148 pages
Primarily a "coffee table" book it does supply basic instructions for the quilts. Some of the quilts in this book are breathtaking.

Stitch 'n' Quilt - Kathleen Eaton
ISBN: 0-8019-8483-1, 96 pages
Book of quilting projects for home dec. A bit light for my tastes, but good if you like fully laid out projects.

The Vest Book - Jaqueline Farrel
ISBN: 0-8019-8648-6, 128 pages
Book of creative vest projects. Lightweight, enjoyable and fun.

Embellishments: Adding Glamour to Garments - Linda Fry Kenzle
ISBN: 0-8019-8478-5, 181 pages
Cloth transformations, manipulations, adornment, collage, special projects. Basic text on adding embellishment to RTW. I personally found their examples to be too "crafty" for my tastes, but has some interesting ideas. The directions and diagrams are clear.


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Fashion & Design

The Way We Wore: Styles of the 1930s and '40s - Marsha Hunt
ISBN: 1-882747-00-3
If you love the styles from the 30's and 40's this book is for you. Crammed full of beautiful photographs of fashions from that era. Most of the photos are of Marsha Hunt herself. Along with all the luscious pictures is very lucid and interesting text describing Mrs. Hunt's life, Hollywood personalities, and stories about the clothing. The book also discusses handbags, scarves, collar shapes, hats, shoes and hairstyles of that era. Highly inspirational!

Fashion in Film - Regine and Peter W. Engelmeier
ISBN: 3-7913-1808-X
A large collection of pictures (frequently stills) of movie fashions with limited commentary. This is a wonderful collection of photos covering a large period of time. Chapters include: Seven Decades of Fashion, Trend-Setting Films, Hats, Hair, Evening Dresses, Gloves, Men's Fashions, Period Costumes, An Oscar for Costume Design.

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Pattern Books

Kwik Sew's Sewing for Baby - Kerstin Martensson
ISBN: 0-913212-13-X, 95 pages includes pattern pack
I really like this book. Its contains an excellent collection of clothing patterns for babies. This one book may be all you need for baby patterns. I've used these patterns and found them to be very "true to size". If the pattern says 3-6 months it really does fit your average 3-6 month old baby. I've sewn for nieces, nephews, children of friends and found these patterns to be the most accurate.

Sew & Go Baby - Jasmine Hubble
ISBN: 0-87341-558-2, 91 pages plus pattern pack, Kraus Publications
A collection of patterns for babies and children. I haven't tried any of the patterns yet, but I've read through the book. I'm of two minds about this. Some of the patterns look great and very useful (or hard to find such as preemie patterns) a few just look silly to me. If I had to choose one I would go with the Kwik Sew book, although this book does include "accessories" patterns.



Last updated: 4/15/2000